Sunday, April 26, 2015

Site assignment and more



Greetings everyone: This was a big week: language, observations, teaching, observations, language, observations, self-study, language, observations, culture, and (wait for it) our site assignment! That last bit is at the bottom of the post.


Last Tuesday was my day with the students in Ymer’s class. My first class teaching Albanian kids! It was a lot of fun and I could tell they had a pretty good time – I did too of course. Teaching in Albania is going to take a bit more thought and consideration than I had expected. It’s not so much the English since my students had a pretty decent handle on the language. But there are nuances with both cultures that I really need to mindful of so things don’t get “lost in translation” (as one of the volunteer/evaluators notes below) – like using a bumper sticker to illustrate a point and then getting sidetracked when I realized that the kids may not understand the purpose of one (haven’t seen any around here). My whole tangent was an absolute waste of time and served no purpose – little things like that.

For fifty minutes the class went pretty well and then train-wrecked for fifteen minutes more as I tried to cover all my material. OK. A teaching mortal sin: sacrificing student learning on the altar of a teacher agenda (it was a misread on my part since I finished earlier than I needed). Nonetheless, I know better than this and I seldom made time-management mistakes in the states – Ymer downplayed my concerns after class (what a nice guy!) and told me later that the students were hoping I would be assigned to the university so they could take classes in the fall term.


I know some of the PC volunteers also read this blog. Also, if others looking into PC service are like me before and after I applied, they got on the web looking for blogs from volunteers to get some sense of what the work was like. So….I decided to post an evaluation on the class (warts and all) for any that might benefit. I asked my small group to give me an evaluation and Jo’s was precise and short enough that I thought I’d post hers.


(Thanks, Mike, for your twelve-page, single-spaced, time-notated review – seriously, it was a work of art, and with his permission I may send it off for publication! I may have to edit: e.g., “Sh**, Bill, WTF were you thinking!!” – OK, I’m joking – Mike told me this week he doesn’t have to post a blog since I share mine with him and he shares with his 2200 friends.)


All the evaluations were incredibly helpful. The topic of the lecture was “Critical Thinking, Culture, and Communication.” Here are Jo’s comments:


Class was very enjoyable – thank you.  
Some points to ponder:
·        Time management (I wish you could have finished)!
·        Avoid saying “understand” so much. Students may be too shy to admit that they missed something.
·        Watch the idioms; EFL learners don’t always get the meanings and get confused; same for colloquial English.
·        Be careful about using too much humor – as with idioms, humor gets lost in translation.
·        Students enjoyed your lecture – they all paid attention to you.
·        Excellent way of introducing gender inequality! Very impressive.
·        Love the part about prejudice and ethnocentricity – but I saw a problem when you were joking about America being the center of everything; I don’t know if they understood your very subtle sarcasm.
·        Tempo of the class was great – seamless flow of information.
·        Very good visuals – excellent power-point presentation.
·        Your English/speaking was very clear and easy to follow.


Jo is going to be a teacher/trainer – working with and observing secondary ESL teachers, and in the course of her two-year
Hangin' with Jo in language class
assignment, giving evaluations for improvement. I’ve had a few teaching evaluations over the years but this one was the most helpful and certainly the most meaningful. Jo served in the Ukraine a number of years ago as an ESL teacher (I may have mentioned this already); this might be her first assessment as a teacher/trainer – my first class; her first evaluation – BAM!


 ***


The next day when I left the university a few kids caught up with me and invited me for coffee. I was headed for the hub for a language class. Made an executive decision (I am with the Peace Corps, right?) and opted for a great opportunity to visit about the school and of course got some of their feedback on the class. I’m getting used to explaining what I do in Albania but these kids already knew since they’ve had Peace Corps volunteers at the university. They asked if I was going to be teaching at the university; I gave them the names of the universities where I thought a volunteer would be posted: Tirane, Korce, Vlore, Durres, and Elbasan. I told them I would find out on Friday. The next part was really cute. You remember with kids the night before Christmas? What time do we open our presents? This one student leans forward and say, “What time will you find out?”


 ***


The next two days after my class we observed at the university, at another high school, worked on language, and our practicum. I was headed into Elbasan Thursday morning. The guy next to me started talking to me and his English was pretty good. He was just returning from Greece that morning. He lived in Elbasan and was visiting his family after picking fruit and vegetables for three months. Alda and I walked for a couple of blocks together and then I peeled off to get my shoes shined with Toni (pic a few posts back). It was good to see Toni and after the shine I was on my way. I crossed the street and Alda came over to me and invited me for coffee. He was sitting at a lokal when he saw me. I was headed to the university to put in an extra hour or so of study but I had been thinking of Alda’s situation – no work here, bounce back and forth between Greece and Albania, holy hell. So I passed on study. Alda moved his bags from one chair and I sat down. We talked for another half-hour or so. It was another story of many I have heard – no hope.


You kids will recall some of the things I told you about Grandpa Dalton’s time during the Great Depression. His dad, your great-grandfather, was the postmaster in Mena, Arkansas. There was a break-in at the post office after closing and great-grandpa was killed. That left just grandpa with a mom and five other brothers and sisters. It was a tough time. Franklin D. Roosevelt was elected in 1930 and the next year he created the CCCs – or Civilian Conservation Corps. By the end of the thirties grandpa was old enough and he joined the CCCs; he said it was the first time he could remember getting three meals a day. Anyway, the CCCs built roads, bridges, improved park lands, etc. It put millions of young men, age 18-28, to work. The point of this Martin Moment is that the CCCs give them jobs, food, and money (like the rest of them, grandpa sent money home to the family every month)  – it also got this cross-section of young men off the streets. In 1997, seven years after the fall of communism, there was a revolution in Albania and the Peace Corps program was closed down because of the political unrest. The force behind the violent revolt was this same age group of unemployed young. Roosevelt likely averted a revolution in America during the depression with his New Deal measures and specifically giving the hopeless and dispossessed young men something to do instead of, like in Albania now, sitting around doing nothing. I am fearful that it will get worse before it gets better, I hope not.   


***


OK. Friday all the volunteers came to Elbasan for a training day. Everyone was anticipating the site announcements. I understand that one year they made the announcement at the beginning of the day and because of all the excitement and some placement disappointments (which I find difficult to understand – or have any sympathy for), the news has been switched back to the end of the day. Nonetheless, the day was filled with a just-below-the-surface energy. Two years is a long time for most of these kids and certainly they wondered where they would be: on the coast, in the mountains, in a big or small community, the whole thing.


Earl Wall, the country director, brought the envelopes with our site assignments. I wasn’t too concerned since the university placements were restricted to the major cities. However, to a degree I was hoping to stay in Elbasan since I have made friends with a number of the locals and I’ve spent a bit of time at the university observing classes, meeting faculty, and taking coffee with students. The room was a bit tense, everyone was waiting, and I couldn’t help myself (note my impish smile): “Any chance we can take a ten minute break!” More than a few responded with a loud and appalling “no!!!” But most of the group got the joke. Pretty damn funny. 


My envelope read, “Elbasan – Alexander Giovanni University” – outstanding!! My good friend Mike is at the university with me. I posted on his FB that his assignment was expected: he’s been watching my butt since Philadelphia and the PC staff realized that it would probably be good to have a minder in place to keep an eye on me. Another good friend, John, is also here working with a tech school – two great guys. I’ll be working with Ymer – he's president of the Albania English Language Teachers Association and I'll act as a Peace Corps liaison to that group. My university counterpart teaches history and works in Balkan studies (more on a later post). 


After the announcement we met at a local outdoor bar and toasted our good fortune. I called my host family and Sardi with the news and they were pretty excited that I was going to be close.
Unfortunately that was the one day I forgot my camera – bummer – I’ll gather some photos from some of the other volunteers and post them later. It was pretty good. Metesh got his dream spot working with a youth group in Vlore, right on the coast, and Nate will be working at a university in Korce – beer capital of Albania – he’ll like that!
***
Quick story: I got home late Friday after the celebrations and two beers (one and a half too many for me). Another face in the living room which I assumed was another family member. Sali introduces me and this guy starts talking to me in Shquip (Albanian). I start fumble-butting my way through: “Une jam nga Amerika. Une jam vulnetar i Korpusit te Paqes…mumble, mumble, mumble.” And then he says, “Pretty good. Your language is coming along.” I start beating on the guy, laughing, everyone’s laughing. Jon lived with my host family the year before and came back for a visit. Very, very funny! He repeated the words I've heard a number of times: “Don’t sweat the language, you’ll get it.”
With Jon, Sali and Renato
***
Yesterday when I got into Elbasan I grabbed my usual first coffee of the day at the park restaurant and let Bledi and the guys know the good news. Free coffee! On the walk up to the hub I greeted Edmond, my street vender friend. His first words: Tirane? No. Korce? No. Durres? No. Vlore? No. And then a big smile…Elbasan? Yes!! And then I got mugged! He immediately went over to his goods and gave me some kind of charm and said “Gud luk, Billi.” I got a half a block away, still smiling and laughing, and went back for the photo. Super moment.
It’s going to be an amazing two years. Later. XOXO

More photos when I have time. Headed out to a neighboring village for some kind of festival - will know when I get there!

Monday, April 20, 2015

A joke on me and a teaching gig (yay!!!)



Yesterday marked my fifth full week in Albania. My new regimen of getting up at 5:30 in the morning to work on the language is paying off. Still slow, but making some headway. In fact it’s pretty much a source of humor with the rest of the volunteers and the PC staff that my pathetic language skills don’t seem to get in the way of my cross-culture IRB – intentional relationship building. Last week at the local café my friends Mike and Nate (both from California) and I were all studying (well, Nate was downloading The Three Stooges I think); but it was evident Mike was having too much fun at his lap-top. He’d just taken a picture of me and I cracked, “What are you doing now, photo-shopping?” Mike had given the café a new name weeks earlier – “Bill’s Boy Bar” – so I had expected some other manifestation of his humor. He just laughed and a few minutes later announced and posted his success:


Now, sometime last year my daughter Abby did the same thing when she posted a Dos Equis add with the tag – “I didn’t know my dad was making commercials!” I told Mike he wasn’t the first. Funny.

I need to give Mike attribution on some of the cooler local-color pics I've posted and will post. OK, Mike, happy now?
With Nate and Mike
***

My small group of seven (me, Mike, Nate, Cristin, Jo, Polly, and Julie) consists of teacher-trainers and university bound volunteers. These next two weeks are filled with our practicum. We’ll make teaching method presentations to other current volunteers and Albanian teachers/students. It will be nice to be able to get in front of a class. Speaking of which, Ymer and I were talking a couple of weeks ago and he asked how things were going. To his surprise (I'm sure) I told him: "I have not been in front of a classroom in five @%&*!! months and I'm going $@$##!! crazy!! He laughed and said "No problem, teach my class up at the university one morning." So, tomorrow (Tuesday) I'm teaching a session on inter-cultural communication. I've edited a bunch of stuff from my humanities courses and just finished the preps. Believe me, it's been a great distraction from the regular routine – and you know I’m always up for opportunities to corrupt young minds. I’ll have a report and some pics for you on the next post.



We were up at the university today observing classes. We each introduced ourselves. I started out “I was born and raised in Albania.” The kids cracked up. At the end of class before I could get my camera out they came up and asked for a photo opportunity. These kids are great.

 
Kids at Elbasan's Aleksander Xhuvani University

 ***
One more totally cool thing. As most of you also know I don’t get too excited about holidays (excepting Thanksgiving) or birthdays (especially mine). I turned sixty-eight a couple weeks ago during my volunteer visit with Marty in Thane. On Thursday I got home from school in Elbasan and Sali was on the front porch with some of the extended family and friends. He invited me to sit down and have a raki – one was enough. After the company left we sat down for dinner; Rezarta brought out this beautiful cake (with a heart on it!) and the family turned to me and said a whole bunch of stuff in Albanian (shqip – but you figured that out by now) with a “Bravo, Billi” or two. It turns out that during the week the PC staff did a check with our families to see how things were going (surely to make sure we weren’t driving our families crazy). Rezarta asked Imelda why I brought the cake home the week or two before (I swear, something I’m thinking happened two weeks ago turns out to be the beginning of the current week, amazing). Imelda says that knowing me, it wasn’t a special occasion, but “that’s just how Billi rolls” – translated loosely. Imelda also mentioned my birthday. Well, the family was disappointed that they had missed it and decided to surprise me. Holy hell. You guys know how sentimental I get. Man, I got all misty (no tears, though) and pretty soon Rezarta’s getting misty – a serious Martin Moment in Thane, Albania. 
Then Sali brought out the bottle of wine I picked up for him earlier in the week – I told him for his use when special friends came over. I was total mush by this point. Seriously, this family is comfortable but I get no sense that there is much to spare, and the bakery cake cost as much as many of the villagers make in a day. It was a touching moment that I won’t forget. (Pics later)


 ***

Oh yeah. On a coffee break next to our school in Thane, another friend, Besi, says (apparently in all seriousness), “Billi, Amerika needs to appoint you ambassador to Thane.” And then later in the day Sardi tells me that he’s decided to give me some of his family’s property so I can build a house on it after I get finished with my service. I’m telling you, all these open arms are doing a number on me.


With Besi
***
Well, Group 18 (our total group of fifty-four) had their individual assessments last week. Mine went pretty well (that is, I don’t think I’ll be seconded to Kosovo or Macedonia). Interestingly enough, Genti (the head of our pre-service training) and Agim (the education head) were aware of my scheduled teaching at the university (I hope Ymer didn’t quote me verbatim) and Mike’s dubbed “Bill’s Boy Bar” in Thane. Again, it’s hard to imagine a PC staff so clued in on the well-being of the volunteers. This Friday I get my site assignment – where I’ll spend the next two years! Best wishes to you all! XOXO

Sunday, April 12, 2015

Few words, lots of photos

Greetings: Easter Sunday for the Orthodox Church. I set out for Elbasan to go to services and find a quiet cafe with internet to do assignments and study. While having my morning Earl Grey tea, my host father came out to the porch and asked me to join him in the morning raki. OK. It tastes better than gasoline but drinks like it could power a Formula One machine. 
And good morning to you, Sali!
On the way into Elbasan I saw a livestock market, which I had seen before, and decided to take in the experience:


Some goats and a donkey
More goats
Some seriously confused hornage
An offer that was tough to pass up!!
Now, over this weekend I caught some local fare:















The local butcher in my village would not let me take his picture, but this is how it's done:
Some local harvesting, in this case chickens:
Only the heads are left over!!
Finally to the church - missed the services, but here is the view:
Oldest Orthodox Church in Elbasan
A pick-up soccer game
A favorite back street in Elbasan
A Sunday afternoon in Elbasan
Now some past images:

A month ago, back in Philadelphia, my dear friend Beth gave me a bon voyage bottle of wine. Didn't have time to drink it, no room in my luggage, no way it was getting carried on. The Peace Corps Director, Carrie Hessler-Radelet made an appearance. I thought, what the hell. Pretty sure when this photo was taken I had just told her that we had all chipped in a dime - all 55 of us. Funny. 
 
An Elbasan high school visit - great kids!!
With a couple of the PC staff, Ymer and Tani - "Did I get it right??"
Nailed it! BAM!!
This is what a furgon looks like - and a hell of a lot newer than anything I've ridden in
Megi and Erion, our principal language teachers
My barber, Ali - he brought out his camera when I told him I was with the Peace Corps
My good friend Toni, on the way from the furgon drop-off to the hub - a really great guy!
Some of the neighborhood munchkins - most of the time they run down to meet me at the end of the day
And finally, Sardi's imitation of me - spot on! I love this guy!
Well, I hope you enjoyed the pics - I have about a hundred of them. I trust all is well with everyone and I send you my affectionate greetings from Albania. Four weeks (holy heck, I just read this post again and I saw I originally posted "months" - it just seems like it!) as a Peace Corps trainee - in a few weeks I find out if I made the cut and then I get my site post. Later. XOXO