Language and volunteer visit

Just got back to my village after four days in Tirane, the capital city. After a morning cappuccino I stopped by the Peace Corps office to drop off a loaner book. Happily, Genti Leka, the guy in charge of the volunteer pre-service training was there and just before a photo opportunity Earl Wall, the country director, came in for the snap. Genti is an Albanian national and oversees and manages all of our language, cultural, and security instruction – well, he does a lot more than that (which you’ll see directly). During the introductions when we first arrived, Earl observed that while all the staff is great, Genti was the only one that walks on water.

With Earl Wall, Country Director, and Genti Leka, in charge of our training

So, last Monday (03.30) after a full day back in Elbasan (again, our time is split between the village and the Elbasan Peace Corps training office – “the hub”), I could tell I was way behind my fellow volunteers in the language. I decided on a new regimen: Up with the first rooster crow (sometime around 5am) and then some quiet time to process all the language instruction. As much as I try, I can’t seem to study that much in the evening – I watched three hours of a wedding video with my family one night last week. It was quite the experience, and since I’ll be invited to some weddings (I’m told) it was nice to see – and the family seemed to get a kick pointing out all the relatives! Besides the time with the family, I’m pretty tired and what study I do get is reading interlinear Albanian folk tales (which I enjoy as a bit of “down time”). Well, Wednesday I hit the hub for our first language class, after an hour and a half study at a local coffee bar. The first five minutes was 100% Albanian – or Shiperi – I’m dying. I can see that the other seven in my group are on board with this but I’m doing everything I can to pick up a word or two. The next five minutes I’m doing my best not to excuse myself from the class. By the eleventh minute I’ve surrendered to my panic, mumble me falni (“excuse me” – I think), and walk out into the hall. In a daze I see Genti’s door open and he invites me in for a chat. Seriously, I am having a total meltdown. I tell Genti I feel like a bucket trying to be filled with a high pressure fire hose – now I know the program works because I see so much evidence with the rest of my group. In so many words he tells me that there are a number of elements that make a good PC volunteer, that I’m processing everything else fine, and not to sweat it – go at my own speed, use the optional meeting times for self-study, and I’ll be surprised at the end of training how well I can handle the language. Well, my anxiety, which had been off the charts, came down to manageable levels. Back in class, more of a spectator, and more study on the agenda. The rest of the week went a lot better. 

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With Nate and Jo

Breaking down gender roles with Rezarta

Some village rush hour

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Saturday I set off early to Tirane to pair up with the volunteer there – to see what I can expect for the next two years. Marty is an older guy about my age. He did a term of PC service in Jordan about fifteen years ago and came to Albania for another. He teaches at the university, does model UN, and holds classes at the American Center (a Peace Corps sponsored program) where he teaches English language three afternoons a week. He also works with an Albanian secondary teacher or two in helping them with their lesson planning. He’s a pretty busy guy and does some other stuff I can’t remember. I had thought (wishful thinking) that I might take his place when he goes back to the states six weeks from now. I don’t think so. While I have the big three: old guy, university teaching experience, and a PhD, Marty says that given that the Albania/PC doesn’t like to place new volunteers in the capital it’s likely I’ll get another post. Besides, there is Jo, in the picture above, with the same credentials who’s already served in the Ukraine.

With Marty and Genci, one of Marty's teachers he is mentoring

Tirane was sunny when I got their Saturday afternoon. Marty walked me all over the place including a café that specializes in American food – we had coffee. While visiting, two Mormon missionaries came in and I gave them regards from Salt Lake City. Quite funny – but completely spaced taking a photo or getting their names! After that, a beer at another hangout. Then to a place that had hamburger on the menu – but not quite. The next day, Easter Sunday, with Genci, one of his Albanian secondary teachers, for a mini-visit, and then I slipped out to catch mass at a local church – in English so it wasn’t quite the fare I was looking for. Stayed for a couple of hymns and then met up with Marty and we went exploring. Greek Orthodox Easter is this Sunday so I’m going to bus into Elbasan and catch that.

Marty's university bldg.

Schools were closed on Monday for Easter – funny though, Marty told me that the school holiday wasn’t announced until just a few days before; he said I’d get used to that. In fact, when he got his first teaching assignment at the university, he was told that his class might be in one or two classrooms, starting either at 9am or 10am! He wandered around looking for his class when he bumped into his students looking for their teacher! They found a classroom and things got straightened out by the second week. More walking around in our second day of light rain.

This morning he was off to another “mentor” meeting, and after the quick stop at the Peace Corps office I headed off to the bus. My walk took me right by the American Embassy – another photo. 

United States Embassy in Tirane, Albania

Security check!!

Now, see the security guy at the wall looking at me? I had crossed the street right and I’m on the opposite corner for the pic. I notice that he’s watching me pretty closely, I think about this for a bit and I almost wave “mire dita” “good day” – anyway, I load up my briefcase, umbrella, bag and continue the block and a half to the bus pickup – the same one Sardi and I hit the weekend before (getting to know my way around). Just as I get there these two uniforms approach me. I’m thinking that they’re helping an obvious American in the capital city – “May we talk to you? We noticed that you were taking pictures of the Embassy. Can you tell me who you are?” Holy hell! I don’t have my Peace Corps passport with me and I’m thinking I might get a better look at the Embassy than I had hoped for! Fortunately I found the PC/Albania contact information card and it had ready references – I’m pretty sure my University of Utah faculty card would have worked. Anyway, he checked it out, got on the phone (with the marines at the Embassy I assume), and I heard those magic words “Korpusin e Paqes” – “Peace Corps”! (Remember, Sardi played the PC card to get us on the bus the weekend before!) Well, couldn’t pass up another photo op. The guy was really nice and bid me a safe trip back to Elbasan and my village. Another great week in Albania. Love to all you guys. XOXO

A welcome band when I got back to Elbasan